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The Palomo Spain label was born in the spring of 2015, with an ethos that combined the dramatic spirit of the southern Spanish character of Alejandro Gómez Palomo, its designer and creative director, together with a sophisticated and urban street style of London, where he spent his formative years studying at the London College of Fashion. Alejandro’s unique and controversial vision, together with his inquisitive character and obsessive attention to detail, earned him the spotlight from the very beginning. In fact, his graduation collection, titled Je t’aime moi non plus, a fusion of men’s tailoring techniques and feminine lines, was acclaimed by both the public and the press, so that it seemed like a natural progression for him to set up his own label upon his return to his native Spain. The Spring/Summer 2019 collection, Wunderkammer, shows a romantic, yet nonetheless transgressive side of the designer, taking inspiration from multicultural backgrounds from different countries like ruffles, fringed capes, and rich, saturated colors from Spain; from India, he found silver kurtas trimmed with mother of pearl buttons; and from Greece, he added lace-up gladiator sandals. Plain silk trousers, soft tie-neck blouses and chic cut-out dresses in shades of black, ivory, and chocolate brown.
Arthur Avellano graduated from the School of Fine Arts in Toulouse. It is during several performances within artistic collectives that he develops his interest in fashion. A kind of total art in which he can apprehend the garment as a design object. He decided to perfect his technique at Atelier Chardon Savard and with his graduation collection, Arthur catches the eye and wins the Who’s next: Best graduate collection prize. The latex he uses catches attention. Banned from classic cloakroom, at the border of the object and fabric, its sexual connotation is perfect to convey insolence. In collaboration with specialized laboratories, he inscribes the originality of his brand in an innovative textile research by developing his own material, a hybrid latex, with properties of use close to leather but retains its texture, its fall and its unique reflection. The Spring/Summer 2019 collection, EXCALIBUR, brings our mind to hot sunny days in a football pitch. Vitamins-like colours such as mint green, orange, wine, purple, grey tones and some pieces in PVC makes the complete collection with a pop touch.
[ SAVOAR FER ] is a womenswear Label by Swiss designer Eliane Heutschi who converts fading savoir-faire into contemporary garments and is based in Paris, France. The phonetic transcription is the perfect reflection of Eliane’s intention : eliminating the out-dated images that impact the ancestral craft-manships perception, preserving only the essence, the intelligence of the hand.
The Spring/Summer 2019 collection ‘’dome buttons’’ is about victorian craftsmanship. Impressed by the omnipresence of the button in our daily life, Eliane Heutschi strives to change our perception of the old-fashioned fabric covered dome button. The function and image of the button has changed and adapted with the groundbreaking inventions in history. Industrialisation marked one of these major changes. Before, a button was a handcrafted precious jewel that held together a loosely cut garment. Following Industrialisation, buttons could now be mass-produced by machines, reducing their manufacturing cost drastically. It became affordable to line a garments sleeves or/and bodies with numerous buttons, changing fashion into more bodyconscious silhouettes. Furthermore, the development of electricity and new electric machines brought the button in a very different direction, even if only as a term. Digitalisation expanded the button’s impact by securing its place on websites and social media. The S/S 2019 ‘’dome button’’ collection will erase the image of lace wedding gowns and lady-like garments, presenting bold, strong and contemporary pieces with the usual [ savoar fer ] signature.
Text Myra Postolache