THE APPROPRIATION OF ITALIAN DESIGNER BRANDS IN THE UNDERGROUND MUSIC SCENES OF THE LATE 90s.
That’s the subject of a wider series of exhibitions – RTRN II JUNGLE – led by Saul Milton and Tory Turk, that traces the culture of jungle and garage scenes and the fashions they inspired.
The first of these exhibitions is Super Sharp, taking place at London’s Fashion Space Gallery, it centres around Milton’s collection of archive Moschino, which is the largest in Europe.
Jungle music, and its devotees consisted in an ecstatic appropriation of flashy, logo-heavy Italian labels, blended with the slack silhouettes and colours of rave.
Versace, Moschino, Iceberg and D&G are examples of labels that ruled the dance floor in the nineties. Moschino, in particular, became the symbol of that subculture.
“Lots of these clothes weren’t meant for the streets of London. They were meant for the catwalks of Milan, for rich Italian women and men” – Milton
It’s a style that has, in the last couple of years, been brought back by contemporary fashion, with many brands embracing their iconic logos and monograms as status symbols once again, this time for a new generation of teens who wield their spending power on Instagram rather than in clubs.
“What better way off showing people “I’m doing alright” than that massive medusa on your back from Versace?” – Milton
Super Sharp is on at Fashion Space Gallery, London until April 21, 2018.