LFW FALL WINTER 2017-18 – PHOEBE ENGLISH
Phoebe English has always shown an inclination for a kind of fashion that’s anything but simple, made of experimental cuts, innovative techniques and elaborated textiles. For FW17 the young British designer recreates a dismal and gloomy atmosphere and stages a presentation that’s reminiscent of a theatrical play, in Fitzrovia Chapel’s suggestive setting. Lights are down, it’s the dramatised tones of red, electric blue and white to speak, while on the models’ faces are painted words like “Apathy”, “Repair”, “Tyranny”, “Fear” but also “Courage”. The makeup is minimised, the faces are pale, the eyes are empty, only the lips are painted in blue, with a messy lipstick application. On the hair, elaborated structures of leaves dipped in silver paint, the same paint that covers the hands of the models. The silhouettes are broken by nodes and layering, while the colours seem to give a sense to the whole show: an interplay of forces in which the innocence represented by white and earth tones, such as green and khaki, collides with danger and tyranny, denoted by red and black. Silver wins above all, in a regal outfit that embodies courage.
Review by Francesca Milano