Glenn Martens, the designer of Parisian brand Y/Project, founded in 2010 and already a cult, brings on the stage a style that stands between streetwear and couture, between careless cool and the study of new shapes and complex structures. For FW17 exaggeration is the key. The first looks’ oversized and distorted proportions revolutionise the concept of sportswear and workwear, adding an elaborate cut to it which results in leather or satin track pants, bomber jackets with a glossy finish and scarves stolen from the bleachers of a football field and revisited with Napoleon’s and other historical figures’ faces. Closer to the tailoring world, the last looks offer a parade of brightly coloured (red, silver) pony suits, pinstripe suits, long corduroy coats and sartorial cuts.
Review by Francesca Milano