EVERYONE LOVES UNIFORMS, AS STYLE CODES OR ARCHETYPES. WE FIND THEM IN BOTH THE MAINSTREAM AND THE COUNTERCULTURE.THEY SHAPE THE STORY. THEY MAKE THINGS EASIER: SPEAKING FOR THE WEARER DIRECTLY TO THE OBSERVER, THEY SERVE AS NON-VERBAL STYLE STATEMENTS.
Punk, in its original incarnation in the 1970s, was intended to be an angry rejoinder to this binding appearing conception.
Skinheads, teddy boys, mods, rockers: they all had a comprehensible, consistent look. Punks scrambled it all, cutting it to pieces and stitching it together in new ways. It was a raised middle finger to the long legacy of the uniform — except for the fact, of course, that it became one itself.
The concept of “no homogenisation” became punk’s loudest and most lasting aesthetic legacy, probably to its detriment. It was an easy caricature, a readily reproducible expression of working-class angst.
Born from a blend of high and low culture, an anarchic street style that even today is transformed into impossibly chic fashion, aiming to highlight the more intellectual, artistic side of punk, drawing a parallel between the populist “DoItYourself” aesthetic and the individualized vision of refined designers.
1. Total Look Maison Margiela fall / winter 2016/17
2. Total Look Louis Vuitton fall / winter 2016/17
3. Total Look Valentino fall / winter 2016/17
4. Sid Vicious & John Lydon at Randy’s Rodeo Nightclub in San Antonio on Jan. 8, 1978.
5. The Clash ph by Sheila Rock, Camden, London, 1979
6. Sex Pistols’ memorabilia
7. Vivienne Westwood & Andreas Kronthaler, ph by Karl Lagerfeld, 1997
1. Vivienne Westwood “Let it Rock”
2. “Gloriana with safety pin”, invitation to Anglomania fall/winter 1993
3. Jon Savage, cover of “London’s Outrage” n°2
4. Total Look Kenzo fall / winter 2016/17
5. Total Look Balenciaga fall / winter 2016/17
6. Jordan inside the store “SEX”
7. Pussy Riot in “A Punk Prayer” movie, 2013
8. PUNKATURE, (Blade Runner inspired print), invitation to Vivienne Westwood spring / summer 1983