The natural look trend is holding steady, alongside a rock-punk trend that is evident in the NY fashion shows for Fall/Winter 2016/17. Lips are coloured with bright and dark shades, and silver powder and glitter are spread on the face, eyelids, neck and nails. Rock eyeliner and no bon-ton graphics, as the eyes absorb the nineties grunge influence with eyeliner or smudged pencil along the contours of the upper and lower eyelids, a la Kurt Cobain, or used in huge quantities for the theatrical, Alice Cooper look (makeup created by Francois Nars for Marc Jacobs). Pop red, or bicolour lips, carmine and purple, from intense colours (the pop inspired look) to those that are darker (the Goth inspired look ). The metal tone of silver is the protagonist. An ode to the power of the eyelashes; long and exaggerated, enriched with layers and layers of mascara. Without doubt, spidery lashes are the new bet for next Fall/Winter.
An imperative at this stage is skin perfection; the watchword for next year will be to shine. Now, there is the desire to glow!
The second stop-over, London, is always the most visionary and provocative, also with regard to beauty. The Girl Who Fell To Earth for Charlotte Olympia: the beauty look from Val Garland painted up with lavender glitter on the eyes, strawberry red diving into gloss on sumptuous lips, and a darker second look with eyes contoured in black, and sparkling, dark coffee lips. The intellectual warriors from Vivienne Westwood, with false eyelashes and exaggerated extra lashes around the eyes. The hands, armed for a fight, metaphorically represented by some nails embellished with metallic tips and some multi-coloured fingers that looked as if they had been immersed in silver, black and gold colours. McQueen’s sirens, ethereal, like creatures from another world, the look created by Lucia Pieroni with silvery skin and smoky, silver eyes. Lovers of Hannibal (Lecter) from Gareth Pugh, created by Val Garland, who defines her beauty look as fierce: the extreme contouring is due to a strand of nylon under the nose at cheekbone level, matt red-purple lips and long nails with French manicure in pastel and gold colours. Creativity is the watchword for next season!
Next winter will see strong colours, lips and black glitter smoky eyes that become glossy and nude look. No fear of daring to take risks. It will be a season of beauty statements, with beauty an important, lavish protagonist. Sixties rock eyes for the cool girls of n21; glossy lips (in 4 shades from strawberry to dark wine) for MaxMara; impressionist eyes for Fendi; glam marionettes for Prada; glossy, smoky eyes for Versace; crazy in love Victorian girls from Anthony Marras and the modern princesses from Dolce and Gabbana. Timeless protagonist …. the mouth, is confirmed as the queen of the winter; a couture detail, matte pink from Gucci, matte cherry from Prada; glossy dark wine a la Lady Di of other times, mysterious and melancholy from Marni and Bottega Veneta. Smudged matte with theatrical black eye-shadow from Anthony Marras, with a couple of risks on the Fendi runway, with the mustard yellow and vinyl pop orange. Eyes are glitter, pop colours, forever black and nude look. The era of sculpting and contouring is changing course: the nude look will focus on the use of more light and less shadow, and above all on the art of highlighting in place of blushes. The new luxury is nude, without materials, but dense with light.
Setting the seal on the strongest trend of the fashion month are the Paris runway shows. From Christian Dior, who dares with a dark red lipstick, without overstepping into gothic, to YSL, where the makeup becomes eighties, with black eyes and red lips. The Paris Fashion Week indicates that the protagonists for next Fall/Winter will be the eyes! Little jewelled (eye) wings from Anthony Vaccarello, rust from Givenchy, glitter in smoky multi-colour from Ungaro, optic white tribals from Cedric Charlier, bright orange from Mugler, ultra black from Elie Saab and the quilted eye for Chanel, like the matelassè bags from the maison (Tom Pecheux). Then, the silvery glitter brow bones for Giambattista Valli (designed by Val Garland), Vionnet’s beauty look, and eyes and lips bordered with a thin gold thread (Tom Pecheux). Because the eyes are the window to the soul is not only a well-known saying, but a new style rule, a detail that speaks louder than a thousand accessories.
Text by Cosetta Giorgetti