The menswear collections for Spring/Summer 2015 have confirmed the encounter, clash and contrast between the worlds of couture and of sportswear. Relaxed styles alternated with exquisite details and inserts, and abstract and coloured graphic themes
COMME DES GARÇONS HOMME PLUS: Rei Kawakubo dispatched men onto the runway dressed like peacekeeping soldiers. Everything bordered on provocation, with brocades, lurex, animal print fabric inserts, and satirical messages that appeared unexpectedly.
GIVENCHY: the clothes in this collection presented precise lines, with nods to the world of sportswear, and highly visual and tribal graphic bands. Riccardo Tisci drew his inspiration from all his obsessions: uniforms, tailoring, Ac-Dc and flowers, and the beads which brought light to the grand finale.
SACAI: Patterns, geometric prints, camouflage, checks and pinstripes decorated Sacai’s summer collection. The experimental tailoring and the overlay teamed perfectly with bermuda shorts and oversize fleece T-shirts.
HERMÉS: watercolour brush strokes, graphic themes and flowers for a collection that presented vintage and retro touches, but at the same time, maintained a modern feel that was light and relaxed. Subtle elegance and an almost intangibile masculinity.
DIOR HOMME: the French maison’s Spring/Summer 2015 season drew its inspiration from the Navy. The sporting wardrobe kept those sartorial details that make stripes and denim, with touches of vivid yellow, so special.
LANVIN: The ‘80s and ‘90s are the two decades that inspired Lanvin’s elegance. The tailored suits, with precise cutting and defined volumes, permitted some contamination, with details borrowed from the world of sportswear. The rock’n’roll touch was the added value that made this collection an impeccable example of casual tailoring.
UMIT BENAN: the photographer Slim Aarons meets the Cartagena tennis club, is how the Turkish designer described his collection on Twitter. The sporting and elegant collection reflects Umin Benan’s aesthetic, with three-piece suits, blazers, double-breasted jackets and rich twills.
SAINT LAURENT: Hedi Slimane, with his unmistakeable touch, brought rock mixed with a country and western mood to the catwalk. The man for next Spring/Summer 2015 wore feathers in his hat, the distinctive elements of the military uniform and ankle boots that emphasized super slim legs. It was the perfect Slimane style: every season revisited with a new twist.
Photo credit Imaxtree