The fashion world has moved to Paris to view the menswear proposals for next summer. The first collections on the runways immediately revealed the direction. Everything was relaxed and modern, numerous pieces made reference to the world of sportswear and others to that of couture. The rule to follow: TWIST… TWIST… TWIST!
CHRISTOPHE LEMAIRE: Christophe Lemaire’s collection was clean, urban and minimalist. The palette of colours ranged from white to black, with a few hints of grey and blue. Everything was meticulous but at the same time, relaxed. Oversize suits, jackets and coats with zips and ultra-light fabrics gave Lemaire’s man a modern attitude.
CARVEN: Guillaume Henry presented a collection that appropriated clothing, volumes and fabrics from sportswear. The coats and beautiful trench coats teamed with wide-cut trousers, defined the new rules for a fluid and casual elegance.
VALENTINO: the man envisaged by Maria Grazia Chiuri e Pierpaolo Piccioli draws his inspiration from Pier Paolo Pasolini, Picasso, Jack Kerouac and Cocteau, and strolls in the garden in his sneakers. For the next summer season the maison has reinvented the canons of past haute couture. On the runways there were peacocks and camouflage, flowers, prints and brocades, and a soft, cool silhouette.
HAIDER ACKERMANN: Haider Ackermann’s bohémien man has taken his clothes from the eccentric and audacious wardrobe of a 1960s rocker. The skinny leather trousers, the undershirts, the long, gipsy-style scarves wound around the neck, and the brilliant velvets and jacquards, define a collection where beauty was faded and decadent.
3.1 PHILIPP LIM: the layering, the check and striped designs were the strong points of this collection. Phillip Lim’s man was athletic in style, and light and cool in spirit. In couture T-shirts teamed with carrot cropped pants, tops that were reminiscent of the kimono, and blazers teamed with bermuda shorts. Everything relaxed, but nothing left to chance.
LOUIS VUITTON: The journey has always been the French brand’s preferred theme. Showing on the runways for the next summer season was an elegant collection for the de-luxe traveller wrapped in his brightly coloured trench coats and wearing soft, sophisticated suits. His look completed with sneakers and a maxi bag.
DRIES VAN NOTEN: a chic and languid collection that drew its inspiration from classical and contemporary dance. Dries Van Noten borrowed some pieces from a dancer’s wardrobe and reinterpreted them on silhouettes that were liquid and delicate.