HYÈRES FESTIVAL: THE INTERVIEWS

Celebrating its 29th edition, the Hyères International Festival of Fashion and Photography is the competition dedicated to the new fashion talents awarded each year in the lovely small city in the South of France. We had the chance to talk with some of them

Louis Gabriel NouchiFrance

La Cambre, Brussels (lacambre.be) – Womenswear

What are the inspirations behind your collection?
I hate humans! is inspired by the movie Princess Mononoké directed by Hayao Miyazaki. The first time I saw it I was 8 years old and from that moment it started my obsession about Japan. When I finally had the opportunity to develop a collection freely, I decided to work on this movie also because its main character is a very wild and independent woman. I didn’t make a collection about manga aesthetic, but it really concerns what this movie is talking about, it regards the balance between opposite forces such as man and nature, men and women, the primitive state and civilization. I also got inspiration from an exhibition I saw in Paris about the work of Romanian artist Geta Bratescu, which showed a series of incomplete circles filled with colours by which I was completely fascinated. I worked on each of these circles and tried to reproduce them in the construction, patterns and colours of my pieces. All the garments have a knitted effect but they are not knitted whatsoever, it is just a mix of embroidery and crochet techniques.

What does it mean for you to have been shortlisted at Hyères?
It’s a great experience because it allows me to meet important people from the industry and new designers, which is hyper cool.

 

Which are the things that inspire you most?
Almost everything. A lot of the inspirations come from the ‘90s as I grew up in those years. I then have a deep love for manga and Japan.

Future projects?
In the short term I don’t want to create my own brand, it’s too early and I don’t think I have enough experience to manage all the aspects of my own business, which would be 5% creative and 95% other stuff such as production, distribution, press. Maybe in a 3 to 5 year period I will decide to launch it, but in the meantime I would love to gain experience at big fashion houses or to collaborate with other designers.

Marit Ilison (maritilison.com) – Estonia

Estonian Academy of Arts, Tallinn (artun.ee)  Womenswear

What are the inspirations behind your collection?
The inspiration is the feeling that I have during winter and dark time which is called Kaamos in Estonian. It’s between November and January when the days are very very short. Actually this is a very depressing word but I didn’t take the darkness as an inspiration, but the feelings that I have during that period of the year. I like to stay in bed all the time, wrapping myself in a blanket. But then I have this conscience that reminds me that I actually should be working. The key pieces of my collection are the coats which are inspired by wonderful dreamlands while, on the inside, I have embellished them with crystals which are nice but not comfortable and annoying at the same time. In the end they are very wearable products.

What does it mean for you to have been shortlisted at Hyères?
It’s a great honour. I first heard about the Festival when I was writing my master thesis six years ago and since then I have kept an eye on it. It’s a really nice experience.

Which are the things that inspire you most?
I want to express great feelings and emotions. These are what really inspire me and I am always thinking about what the feel is when you touch or wear something. Artistic-wise I really like the music by Karin Dreijer Andersson actually from The Knife and also Olafur Eliasson’s work.

Future projects?
I have different projects including exhibitions. In general all my works come together over a very long period of time as for this collection Longing for sleep I got the name and the idea of the blankets almost ten years ago. I am also involved in the launch of my coats label based in Estonia.